It wasn’t always running where I found enjoyment and excitement. A fellow work colleague and me were chatting one day and decided that the coast to coast on road bikes was an adventure too good to miss. So we came up with a plan and this is how it went.
As we left home at 4:30am the rain was pouring down and it was still dark. We made a dash for the Station where we arrived at 4:50am, we were faced with a notice that told us that the Station did not open until 5:00am, despite this we made our way through the tunnel and on to the platform and dried ourselves off. As the darkness made way for a murky grey we boarded the train, secured our cycles, and at 5:30am departed for Whitehaven to start what was to be an exciting and testing challenge of endurance.
We passed through Conisbrough and I can remember thinking that just a few weeks ago I passed through here on the bike training for this challenge wondering if it would ever get off the ground, well now we’re here looking at Conisbrough from a different perspective. Tony and I chatted as the train made its way to Manchester Airport. We changed trains and after a brief stop (where we snatched a cup of tea) were soon passing through some very fine scenery at Lancaster, Grange-over-Sands, Ulverston, and finally coming to a halt in Barrow-in-Furness. We only just had time to cross the line before the train to Whitehaven rolled in and came to rest alongside the platform. One keen cyclist was already securing his bike in the small space allowed for freight. The train driver announced that three bikes was all he would allow, so this time we had been lucky, god knows what we would have done if the keen cyclist had brought a friend!
At 12:00am we were standing outside the station at Whitehaven, having just completed the obligatory photo shoot, and after trying to ring Sue with no success, we set off for the start of the days cycling at St Bees Head. It was five miles up the road, with up being the operative word. Maybe it was the weight of the pannier bags, but that hilly five miles was very hard work indeed, and it would be nothing compared to what was waiting for us in the Lake District.
The sun kept finding holes in the fluffy white clouds, all the grey skies had been left behind as we rode into St Bees, it looked so peaceful and inviting. More photographs, and as Tony chatted to some tourists, I made my way down to the little slipway that was being washed by the sea. I then had a quiet moment to reflect the task in hand and think of Sue, I wish she was here now. After rinsing my hands in the Irish Sea I joined Tony at the monument dedicated to Arthur Wainwright, the founder of the Cross country Coast to Coast. This was it, 1:00pm, and time to begin the adventure to link the Irish Sea and the North Sea by road, on bicycles.
The roads were still quite undulating as we cycled out of St Bees but once we reached the A595 the hills were less steep, but longer. Conversation ceased as we made good time and pace, in the distance the high mountains of the Lake District beckoned, and as we turned off the main road to follow a sign saying Hard Knott Pass a wave of excitement sent a shudder up my spine. We were soon at the foot of this enormous climb, “Awesome” I said as we stopped for a drink and recorded on film this monumental wall of rock.
Within minutes of engaging the climb I was forced to dismount and proceed to walk the remainder. My five speed road bike could not produce a gear anywhere near low enough to push up this hill. Tony however, on his mountain bike survived longer, and with strength and determination managed to conquer two thirds of the climb. Motorists smiled and waved, applauding our efforts, and in the end our labours were rewarded with a fifty mile unrestricted view of the surrounding countryside. All the time we had lost was soon to be recovered, after a lesser descent, and subsequent climb of Wrynose Pass, we were on the major descent down to Little Langdale. Speeds in excess of thirty five miles an hour were reached, with the brakes on! Stopping would have been impossible, but soon Skelwith Bridge came into view, and finally Ambleside, the end of the first day’s ride.
33 miles covered, with 43 miles total mileage if you include to and from the stations.
It was 5:00pm…
Jim made us very welcome at Rothay House which had a slightly country and western flavour to it. The evening was spent reflecting on the day’s events and enjoying Rainbow Trout at one of the local restaurants, all washed down with a pint in the nearest hostelry.
Wednesday 11th August
Today’s ride would take us from Ambleside in the Lakes to Richmond at the other side of the Dales. We left Ambleside at 10:20am and arrived in Bowness-on-Windermere in good time to watch the eclipse. Tony spotted it first at about ten to eleven, with the sun behind the clouds but still visible, it was about one third obscured. We sat on a wall while it grew dark and cold until finally thick cloud engulfed it completely. So at around eleven twenty we decided we had seen enough. With the high peaks of the Lake District Behind us we were able to make good pace all the way to Kendal, where we arrived at 12:00am. A busy little town this so we had no trouble at all finding a café for a cup of tea and piece of cake.
The main road to Sedbergh was also quite decent, and I bagged a good deal in a sports shop.
We were making good time and enjoying the ride, then at Garsdale as I changed gear to descend, the chain danced along the cluster of cogs and dropped off the end. “Bugger!”
I pulled over to the side of the road and manipulated it back on, only to find my hands covered in thick black oil. Tony was quick to act and produced some wipes he had borrowed from work, they were designed for just such emergencies. So as Tony re-packed his bag I did a very satisfactory clean up job, nice one Tony! I set off, staring down at my selector to make sure everything was ok, Tony on the other hand was convinced he had left something behind and stopped. I slammed into his rear which sent me hurtling to the ground with my knee taking most of the force. I struggled to my feet and quickly removed my bike from the path of an oncoming vehicle. After making an inspection of the bike and me I found no serious damage to either so we continued with our journey. We turned off the main road and headed for Hardraw, and were faced with a climb of mammoth proportions. I dismounted after grinding to a halt but Tony struggled on a little further. Sweat ran over my face and my legs turned to jelly, I climbed back in the saddle and pushed for the top, visibility was excellent as I approached the summit it was then that I spotted the Buttertubs, a rocky feature where we had promised ourselves a rest.
With some easy climbs and fine scenery we were soon approaching the outskirts of Richmond. We had made good time from the Buttertubs but it was still 7:10pm as we rolled to a halt outside Dorothy’s B and B, a little later than we had expected. Dorothy made quite a fuss of us so it was 9:00pm before we went in search of food. All the pubs stopped serving at nine, so we were left with three choices, Chinese, Indian or Fish and Chips. We chose the latter and they were the best Fish and Chips I have ever had.
70 miles covered today making a total of 113.
Thursday 12th August
I was concerned about the knee injury that had been bothering me all night, but as we cycled away this morning it felt quite good, The pain had gone and riding the bike did not seem to affect it. We visited a bike shop before we left Richmond, Tony reckoned that it was one of the best in the north of England. So it was 11:00am before we were on the road.
Riding as if we were on a time trial we were soon entering Northallerton at 12:00am where we bumped into a friendly Bus Driver. Been a keen cyclist himself he proceeded to re-schedule our route, so we thanked him but decided to stick to the original one.
We rested in Osmotherly, passed through Kildale, and then had rather a longer stop in Castleton than we had planned. After making a hair raising descent I spotted a decent place to eat, I dismounted and expected to see Tony right behind me but he was not, thinking he would appear at any moment I took out a sandwich and glanced at my watch, it was 4:00pm. He finally came walking down the road pushing his bike with a split tyre.
I chased round Castleton for an hour trying to find a new tyre, with no luck, meanwhile Tony had made some makeshift repairs and at 5:00pm we were back on the road again.
The climbs were becoming very steep now as we passed through Houlsyke, Lealholm, and Glaisdale, the climbs were out of steep sided valleys with fast frightening descents, on one such descent I found my brakes to be totally ineffective, as I gathered speed I realised the only way to stop was to force my shoe into the tarmac until I came to a halt. Out came the spanners.
It felt comforting to know that I could stop now if I tugged on my brake lever, but all was not well, there were hard climbs around every corner, it would soon be dark, and we had been going round in circles for the last half an hour. Grosmont had disappeared off the face of the earth, there was only one thing to do, go the long way round by Whitby.
After a long stretch of hard riding and no talking we descended the steep hill down into Whitby, we were both very tired now and with no lights on our bikes had to keep up a good pace to beat the advancing night. I thought we would never reach the turn off to Robin Hoods Bay but at 8:25pm in failing light I rinsed my hands in the North Sea.
Whitby and just a few miles to the finish at Robin hoods Bay.
Once again we enjoyed Fish and Chips under a starry sky followed by a celebratory Jack Daniels…. just the one!
Miles covered today 76. Total miles covered 189.
Friday 13th August
We decided to play it by ear today, we would cycle the seventeen miles into Scarborough, replace the split tyre on Tony’s bike, leave our pannier bags and anything else that would come off the bikes in the station lockers, and then make a run for York. 50 miles. At 9:00am we left the Wayfarer and after a back breaking climb out of Robin Hoods Bay arrived in Scarborough at 10:20am. Tony got to work replacing the split tyre, while I removed my pannier bags and rack, I carried some essentials in a small rucksack on my back. After refreshments in the station café we rolled out for the last time. It was 12:00am.
We left Scarborough under an overcast sky, and by the time we reached Rillington the rain was coming down. It was 2:00pm when we arrived at Malton, so we scoured the rain soaked streets for food, we were soon sitting down to Tuna and Baked Potato with all the trimmings. After re-joining the A64 our spirits had lifted, the rain had stopped and we were making good time once more. The difference it made not having to carry the pannier bags was quite surprising.
York Minster was in view as we rode past on the busy York by-pass and in no time at all the turn off for Selby via the A19 appeared on our left. About three miles from Selby fate dealt us some cruel cards, my back tyre was punctured! With all my tools and spare tube in the locker at the railway station it left us with no choice, while I kept inflating it and then making a run for it, Tony rode off to Selby to try and get a new tube before the shops closed. Each time I sprinted for it the tyre would go down a little faster each time until the air would not stay in at all, and it was time to walk. It was while I was walking that a racing cyclist stopped to see if he could help, I said that I needed a tube, and like magic he produced one from behind his back, unfortunately it was the wrong size, nice bloke though.
After borrowing some spanners and repairing the burst tube we were on our way again. As we enjoyed a short break in Selby the rain started again, it became very heavy as we passed through Brayton and Burn until finally we took shelter in a bus stop at Whitley Bridge. We were surprised to find another refugee of the storm as we shuffled inside. We chatted and had a drink while distant thunder rumbled around, but Tony was becoming worried as the sky grew darker and we did not want to get caught without lights. So into the rain we rode, it did ease off for a while, but as we approached Askern we were caught in a torrential downpour with hailstones thrown in for good measure. With our heads down we battled through the storm, the road became a river, and the sudden cold chill of my socks getting wet made me realise that my feet had not actually been wet until now.
The worst was over as we left Askern, in fact I swear that it had not rained at all on this side of town. For some unexplained reason we were doing over twenty miles an hour now, without any effort at all, Tony commented on how good he felt, yes, I felt the same.
We were riding like the wind as we rode into Barnby Dun, and the end of our adventure.
Until next time…….
Miles today 93. Total miles 282.