Good call and let’s hope that it is just from the condense pipe.
@realspeed the boiler they installed was a Glow-worm 24hx model condensing version if tfhat means anything
Nothing wring with that boiler RS, as long as you have an annual service, it should be fine. The efficiency is about 88.2 % A point to remember about the boilers condense pipework. Ideally, it should be run and terminate indoors if possible (into the sink waste etc) if it does run outside, make sure that it is insulated well. A frozen condense pipe could(and normally does) prevent your boiler from working.
A Hive control is very good, as are some of the competitors. At least you don’t have to go outside to adjust the heating now JBR:-)
That amount of radiators and towel rails is pushing your boiler to its limit. I wouldn’t be surprised if it isn’t running flat out all of the time. A 30kw boiler would have been better.
Nothing wrong with those readings Caricature and yes, I am OK thanks. Hope that you are too.
I agree LD and normally, if the system is ‘sludged’, you can’t have a powerflush.
Talking of which, we have one room supplied by microbore - the conservatory. As I understand it, it is illegal to have a radiator in a conservatory attached to the regular heating system in the rest of the house - I think!
On the other hand, we rarely have that radiator turned on, as it’s rather pointless. In summer it isn’t needed and in winter it wouldn’t make much difference, not that we use the conservatory in the winter anyway.
Ah! So is the only solution to replace the radiators affected?
I must admit, I have never heard that one before. As for being illegal, I assume you mean against the ‘rules’. Gas Safe ‘rules’ do not apply to anything else apart from gas.
I can’t remember where, but I think I read it somewhere some time ago.
It doesn’t matter, though. I don’t stick to all the rules!
If most of your radiators are OK, you could replace just the ones that are causing problems / rusty. In which case, you have two choices.
- Drain and flush the whole system. Replace rads and defective valves. Refill the system, add a cleaner, run the system as recommended by the manufacturer. Drain, flush and refill the system. Add inhibitor.
- Exchange radiator(s) add cleaner. Drain and flush - add inhibitor.
Personally, I always prefer No1.
Yep fine thanks,thanks for the boiler reply.
Thanks.
Thanks. That’s food for thought.
If no. 1, does that mean you drain and flush twice, or have I misunderstood?
It does indeed. After the initial drain down and flushing the system out (by that, I mean refilling the system and draining again) refill the system adding the cleaning chemical. Use as per manufacturers instructions (that normally means running your heating at a high temperature, depending on the manufacturer, for at least 2 days) Drain again, flush again to remove any chemicals, especially if you have installed new rads, refill, then add the inhibitor. It sounds complicated, but is quite easy.
No problem 
It sounds pretty straightforward now you’ve explained it further. It looks like it might take at least a day and possibly more, so it might be best if I leave it until the weather’s a bit warmer.
Thanks again. Very helpful.
I’ve just discussed this with Marge and she agrees that it would be best in the long term to do the job properly, draining down the whole system, flushing and replacing any radiators and valves as necessary.
We’ve decided to leave it for now and wait for the weather to improve. We’ve just had some new carpets too, so I’ll have to roll them back first!
Thanks again for your help and advice. 
No problem and if you do decide to change your rads, remember if they are old, they will be the imperial size. Therefore, some new rads will not be the same size(metric) and the pipework might require altering, or extension fittings to your new rads.
Actually, there is only one which definitely needs replacing because it is rusting underneath externally.
Others seem OK at least externally, though the large one in the living room has needed bleeding a couple of times, so I assume it is rusting internally. I may be wrong, but when I last bled it there was a distinctive smell from the gas escaping.
I might try that little trick of collecting some gas in an upturned container and see if it pops!