Ain’t had a sudden bout of laziness, had to get the Plasterboarding done in readiness for the Plasterers arrival (been called off till this Friday). Last Friday, I went and retrieved my lent out Wheelbarrow and found the tyre had been trashed (along with the Inner Tube) so, ordered a new pair of items off Ebay, due this week. Not to be stopped in my tracks I thought, why not get my Stack Truck, put a Tote Bin on it, and start transporting the couple of tonnes of ballast, from front to back to relive the burden later in the week, thwarted again, puncture in one Inner Tube, new one is only £4.50 so, not worth buying a puncture repair kit which would cost about the same.
All that looks like a lot of hard graft Spitty, fair play to your taking it on, sooner you than me, but then I wouldn’t have a clue where to start and what to use.
I salute you young man.
We had the plumbers in earlier today, they had to take the old air conditioner away, it was a heavy old thing and it took four of them to carry it out, the driver told me that in this new company they are very health and safety conscious.
“There is no flexibility in Stiff Nipples” says he “So we have to work in pairs— two a breast”
Strange name for a company, I thought maybe the boss could be a posh lady who likes to keep a stiff upper nipple, her men seem to give her full support in this which is nice.
No Rebar in this, the ground is completely stable, believe it or not, there is a slab plinth going on top of the concrete plinth to the dimensions of the Metal Shed to keep it above the water runoff point, that will give a 4"base.
Remember when I had to underpin a 20’ high wall. Had to run rebars tied together through the whole length (about 60’), pouring concrete in sections before digging out between the pads (which was made harder due to the rebars we’d hammered into it!!).
Change of tack today, waiting for another couple of tonnes of ballast to be delivered tomorrow, so am putting in a slotted post to at the perimeter of the slab as a new fence is being installed in front of next doors fence to give the shed area a unitary aesthetic.
Out of interest, do you use postcrete? I tend to use a bit to get it to hold in place, and top up with ordinary concrete. Far more cost effective!!
Also find that peashingle is definitely one’s friend to get the right place and height in the first place, plus (IMHO) a sensible thing to use at the bottom of timber posts so at least there’s a semblance of allowing for some kind of drainage.
Hi Dex,
what I intend do Is find a MetAPlate (usually 100mmX100mm) that will hold a slotted concrete post (mine are 95mm X 105mm) to be fixed to the slab where the lump hammer head and the Trowel tip is in the photo below I have increased the bed depth at these points), the the first slotted post will be cut down from 5ft to 4ft to match the back fence (and reduce weight) and will be fixed to the existing post in the corner with the slot, Pointing down the garden, the next two posts will be shortened accordingly and fit into the MetAPlates, the gravel boards will be supported slightly of the slab with galvanised nails or similar to allow for drainage. The rear gravel boards will be drilled at slab level for drainage purpose also.
Not really a problem - the rebar is usually pretty thin and if you use a (cheapo) diamond blade instead of of a composite, it’ll easily slice through it/them.
That’ll be interesting to hear about since they tend to be used for timber posts. Never considered using one for concrete. Mind you, looking at where it’s going, the shrubs and trees will prevent too much air pressure on it.
TBH - if you’re putting a shed there, do you really need a fence panel as well? Also, adjacent fence panels could be attached to the shed and not need a post at all.
It ain’t the last of the concreting Dex, back in the photo of the path Post 39, the three slabs to the left will continue in front of the slab just laid, to allow access to the doors of the new shed, but, the level of this is lower than the slab to allow the paving slabs to be at the correct height for the new shed doors, this can be partially achieved by making the sub base about 50mm thick, instead of the 75mm of the main base.
The new shed is a metal one Dex, so would invalidate any guarantee (15 years against corrosion) if I attached to it in anyway. All ideas are welcome Dex, I usually have them after I’ve finished and spent much time and money. The only offset here is the reduction of the size of the new lawn, it is getting more manageable as we go, which, if I get time to do it myself will have saved the £800.00 labour charge I was looking at.
Been to the Fencing Place and it seems they don’t make their own slotted posts which, are in short supply anyway, they were also doubtful I would find a MetAPlate to fit them, so, this is the plan. Get two plates and one 100mmx100mmx8ft wooden fence post, cut the fencepost in half, fix down the plates and bolt in the posts, then using smaller timbers, turn the posts into slotted posts and buy two gravel boards. We have two brand new 6X6 featheredge panels at the FILs which I will cut in half which will then slot in, that will save a few Bob.
:lol: