It had a short 10mm threaded end where the red plastic insulation can be seen, and in my electrical box of delights I had a brand new light fitting previously purchased from Messrs Block and Quick, with a 10mm thread. Perfect.
Cable slack taken up so the contact block fits snugly and locks into the base of the fitting. You can just see a tiny gap on the far side of the block. The angled part on the left of the gap is part of a ratchet and pall system that locks the bulb holder in place so it can’t accidently come unscrewed.
Cable fed through the safety “snake” moulded into the base to stop the cable from accidently being pulled out, and through the built in anti-chafing gromit.
Good effect, I was surprised as I thought that bulb would be too directional. Well done.
Those wire strippers look like the type we were supplied when I worked for the GPO sixty years ago, never used them, have always stripped wire with a pair of cutters or even a knife. Never nicked the copper yet.
You are right, the bulb was too unidirectional, and it made the copper too hot so I changed it for an LED bulb instead.
Using the correct tool for the job was drummed into me for many decades. I’ve had bad experiences with people using the wrong tool to strip wires. The MoD were most displeased when we had to send a chap to remake the ends of several hundred pairs of wires in a custom built junction box for which we had charged them a lot of money because someone had used a knife and repeatedly nicked the insulation.
The aerospace industry has very tight controls with regard to procedures and tool control. Even using an adjustable spanner on an aircraft component is prohibited.
That is right up my street, Fruity, I love it!
