Morning Dex and all, blocks are now done, as can be seen now how the grass tapers under what was once tallish shrubs. We have decided to build in a 12" border all round that will be filled with best quality soil and compost or whatever, this means the lawn no longer has to reference exactly to the hardstanding around it meaning I can be more economical with the dressing soil under the lawn.
Back to fence painting now.
https://i.ibb.co/k9SNMS0/5-BC1-DED9-60-F9-4-CE9-ABC2-A633-F5616-B19.jpg
Hi Spitty. Not exactly sure what you mean, but it will no doubt become clear in due course.
I only have half a bag of building sand left so doubt there will be enough to bed the 3X2 slab fully, so, taking Barry’s advice much earlier in the Thread I will put a solid border around the edge and a blob in the middle. I took a measurement from the bottom of the spirit level (top of the blocks) to the concrete sub-base which is 75mm, the slab is 50mm thick giving a mortar bed depth of 25mm. To make sure there is no waste and maximum contact, I have made two frames, an outer and an inner out of 32mm timber, the mortar will be applied between these then frames removed giving a compression depth of 7mm. Because of the weight of the 3X2 and the requirement to place it accurately I will have to wait for my son to come home at 7.30pm but will mix and place the mortar about 7.15pm.
Where the lump hammer is I will dig a foot square hole, fill it with pea shingle then block and fit a drain cover, to form a soakaway, then extend the downpipe to meet it, should I forget to syphon of any excess water from the water butt.
https://i.ibb.co/4ptMQQM/69-EDABCB-9062-46-F9-9270-937-A38-BD6793.jpg
Slab for Water Butt set, and hole dug for shingle soakaway.
https://i.ibb.co/Kwx7BQ0/715-B5467-9-BBA-481-E-85-E2-44-D78-FB0119-A.jpg
Nearly half the small lawn area ready to receive Topsoil (grass completely removed)
https://i.ibb.co/Dw4Hmyp/4-C274782-7620-445-B-BBDC-B37-D627-BF38-C.jpg
Never thought I would find myself posting a picture of “My Butt” on the Net.
https://i.ibb.co/ckJzmzR/B584-CA0-B-65-D3-4-C3-F-A3-A1-EFD38-AB1-E11-C.jpg
The Rain Diverter with the kit is for a round downpipe, Just had to buy a square diverter form Screwfix.
Is that fence dividing you and your neighbours?
Over here I believe it’s code that you can’t build anything within 8 feet from a fence line but I understand different locations have different rules.
Laying bricks certainly isn’t easy but it looks good so far
Hi Bratti, no, there is no legislation as far as I know for what is effectively a detached garden building, but some folks in Leasehold Properties are restricted by certain convenances .
First 1.5 Tonnes of Top Soil delivered.
https://i.ibb.co/GMQLKct/B51-B4377-A13-A-4-E42-BBFB-F31-D41-A05825.jpg
Looking really smart well done
Tanks Kazz, the first tonne and a half in place, time to order some more.
https://i.ibb.co/Byw2gbk/F5863883-1980-4-F30-9928-C9-BB4-E9189-C8.jpg
Looking great Spitty!
That is going to look really good.
The soil looks good,the youngest is over in Lichfield their soil is sandy,it the new stuff the same?
It’s sandy alright, when the geezer comes tomorrow, it will ask where it s sourced, very few stones in it.
Over to the other side now, to be able to cut the existing lawn whilst I lay the small lawn, I needed to sharpen up the edges and remove any stray stones to protect the mower blade, with this in mind, and to be able to set a proper level for the topsoil a baton is being inserted at a level of one inch lower than the border pavers and three feet away from them. The zone created will be cleared of all vegetation prior to building up the soil level, and compacted accordingly, when this is achieved the remaining (level) Lawn will be scraped off and topsoil applied to the same level. At this point I can decide to lay the turf myself or let a contractor do it in the knowledge all levels have been made to my satisfaction.
https://i.ibb.co/YtVhkjR/C5-AD3-E15-1-BE2-4473-BF4-B-60-CFDC3-D8-D81.jpg
This photo shows the present grass not removed and the potential depth of topsoil required. Its a bit to hot to faff about with this today.
https://i.ibb.co/ZT8VKfM/EC80347-B-98-AF-4-CCA-9-A1-A-D1-CF912-BA53-E.jpg
You could, of course, make that soakway a bit bigger (deeper?), and place stone stones which you could rake up into it, and then place a drain grid on top (mortared into place for a bit of stability).
That’s the plan Dex, going to fill the soakaway with pea shingle, didn’t want the soakaway too big because it will only process rain water when the Water Butt is full, normally this won’t be the case because the water will be used, just fitted the water diverter (the square one from Screwfix) so let it rain.
https://i.ibb.co/2jV2LSH/43-B2411-C-ACEB-40-BF-8-C47-12-ED1-D28-B31-D.jpg
This is the depression at its worse, the bottom of the baton is the finished height of topsoil, which is 8 inches below level.
https://i.ibb.co/5BnLXvT/1818165-E-AF1-E-4-D3-F-8-ACB-013321419433.jpg
Hi Spitty. Not that you’re likely to do it, but if it were me I’d be inclined to dig a trench (maybe 1-1.5 feet deep) along that border and bung the sods of the existing lawn down (green side down) there and use the spoil of the trench to cover it up as well as some of the sublayer for the new lawn. That way you don’t have to pay for a skip and will also save a few quid on topsoil for both the border and under the new turf.
I’d also recommend sprinking some pre-turf fertiliser on the new topsoil. From memory, you should really leave it a few weeks with the soil and fertiliser down before laying turf to allow any obvious weeds to show their ugly little heads and remove accordingly. Laying turf in September is an ideal time since the ground is still warm enough for initial growth, plus you’re less likely to walk on it over the following wet months.
No doubt you’ve done all of the research anyway and I’m just advising on how to suck eggs. But, hey ho…
